Ari's Planet

I'm going to hit the Annapurna Circuit (AC) in a couple of days. I loaded up my backpack today with just about everything I'll be taking and hiked up to the Peace Pagoda in Pokhara. My stupid left knee hurts, as expected, but my chest, which had been bugging me, is no worse. The weight isn't so bad, either. I'll just take it slow and easy while my body gets used to things.

I snagged the route info from the LP guide, and my expected route is given below. Stops may vary, there are other towns and lodges along the way and my pace will be set by how I feel, not by any specific route. I'll take the high-route from Pisang to Manang since everyone says it is spectacular. I will also stay an extra night (3 nights, not 2) between Manang and Thorung Pedi as recommended by the Trailblazer guide to decrease altitude sickness. I'll throw in some day trips around there to fill the time and follow the "climb high, sleep low" advice to aid adaptation. I'll team up with a group to go over the Thorung La pass, the Trailblazer guide recommends at least 4-5 people in a group, so if someone is injured one person can stay with them while two others go for help. In total, it should take at least 21 days to complete the trek, but given the way I like to travel it could easily take longer, so I'm going to budget 30 days just in case.

I'm leaving pretty late in the season. The pass was clear last time I checked, but if it's blocked or my body gives out on me along the way I'll either wait up there a few days for it to clear (or for me to get better), or just go back down the way I came. I can always hit the other end on the Jomsom trek or try one of the other treks. I registered online with the US state department just in case the worst happens and I need to be evacuated. The department actually has a good web application for registration, I was quite shocked that the US government had its act to together.

I may hire a porter along the way if necessary and possibly also for the climb over Thorung La. According to a recent entry in the trekker book at the KEEP offices in Thamel, porters run about 500Rs/day, but be careful who you hire and negotiate the price and what is included in advance. The Maoists seem to be happy with "donations" of about 100Rs/day, and definitely get a receipt and do not piss them off.

Here's the route info from the LP, indicating likely villages at which I'll sleep. I've indicated with a (P) towns where my guidebook says there is a phone available, but in some places it's $10 for the first few minutes. As you can see, even with the extra rest day this only comes to 18 days, so obviously I'll be staying in some other places along the route. You can find out almost everything you want to know about the AC at Yeti Zone, including pictures and route descriptions.

1 Basishar (P)
2 Bahundanga (P)
3 Chamje
4 Bagarchhap
5 Chame (P) (bank)
6 Pisang
7,8,9 Manang (P)
Health center during trekking season, porters. etc. Day trips during acclimatization.
10 Letdar
11 Thorung Pedi
(go over Thorung La, the hardest part)
12 Muktinath
13 Kagbeni
13 Marpha
14 Ghasa
15 Tatopani
16 Gohrapani
17 Tikedungha
18 Naya Pul